Monday, May 26, 2008

Getting Started In RC Models.


THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TOY RC CARS AND HOBBY RC CARS
The RC cars and trucks that you see on TV and in toy stores offer a great way for young people to get involved in a rewarding hobby; however, there are few similarities between these toy-grade vehicles and tproper radio controlled cars. For example, with hobby-grade R/C vehicles spares are available and you'll be able to make repairs yourself without having to send it back to the manufacturer. Also, hobby-grade R/C vehicles are generally made of better materials than toygrade vehicles, so they can withstand the severe punishment of a backyard obstacle course or a high-speed cartwheel at the local parking lot. Hobby kits are designed to provide long life and superior performance.


SPEED CONTROL BASICS
Our electric-powered models come with electronic speed controls. They're devices that allows the car to move forward at different speeds instead of just one speed like with a toy radio controlled car, as well as a reverse function to allow you to back your car out of trouble. Mechanical speed controls perform well enough, but ours come with advanced electronic speed controls (ESC). You'll find that an ESC allows much more precise throttle control, requires no maintenance, operates more efficiently, and saves both weight and space on your car's chassis.


WHERE TO RACE
Most hobbyists run their vehicles in informal settings. Backyards, vacant lots and unused, paved areas are where you'll probably find people driving and enjoying R/C vehicles. If you have a competitive nature, however, there are hundreds of R/C racing clubs and tracks throughout the country.


OFF-ROAD VS ON-ROAD
The most popular type of R/C car is the Off-Road Buggy. Big tires with "knobby" spikes, full-travel suspension parts and a high ground clearance allow the off-roader to go almost anywhere. On-Road cars usually have lower ground clearances, slicks tires, aerodynamic bodies, and are capable of a bit higher speeds.

by Nitrotek



Should I Get A Nitro Or Electric R/C Car?

This is one of the most important questions that most beginners over look. Nitro powered cars are a lot faster and required more driving skill to control. We think nitro radio controlled cars are a lot more fun and realistic but there is also more Maintenance required because of the nitro engine. The user will need to be prepared to learn and understand the model and mechanics of basic hobby engines. If you have patience and are looking for a hobby instead of a toy we would recommend a nitro car.
Electric powered cars are much simpler and require less maintenance than nitro. The user simply charges the batteries and runs the car. Very little adjusting is needed. Recommended for beginners who just want to get the model out and use it straight away.
by Nitrotek

Calibrating Your ESC (Electronic Speed Control)

The ESC in most cases will have been calibrated before you receive it. There are ways to check this however if you are not sure:
Switch on the handset first and then the car. Notice how the LED reacts as you use the handset so place the car on something which will allow the wheels to spin freely i.e. tin of paint.

Forward (pull the trigger towards you and wheels should spin forwards) - LED should shine as per the motor speed.
Brake (trigger in the neutral position, wheels should now be stationary) - LED blinks.

Reverse (push the trigger away from you and the wheels should spin in reverse) - LED shines solidly.
Note: the car when moving in forward motion can not go into reverse motion immediately. There is brake delay time so the handset will first need to go into neutral for 0.35 seconds before you begin reversing.

If you are not experiencing forward motion, reverse motion or both, first check your trims (also on our help page). If this does not make any difference your car may not be calibrated so use the procedure below:

* Handset and car switched on.* With the handset in neutral, press and hold the set-up button for 1 second until the LED blinks once/motor bleeps once. Neutral set-up is finished.* Pull the trigger towards you, press and hold the set-up button for 1 second until the LED blinks twice/motor beeps twice. Forward set-up is finished.
* Push the trigger away from you, press and hold the set-up button for 1 second until the LED blinks three times/motor beeps three times. Reverse set-up is finished.
by Nitrotek

Nitro Radio Controlled Car Maintenance

For basic maintenance information please see our "what you need to check before use" section on our web site. If you are serious about the hobby though and want to keep your car well maintained you should maintain the following items:

General Cleanliness - A clean car is a happy car! Not only that, but you will be able to spot problems easier on a clean car than on a dirty car, and also while cleaning it, you can give the car and body a quick look to see if anything is wrong. Use a large natural-hair bristle brush (from a hardware or paint store) to remove dust from the chassis and inside of the body. Use some denatured alcohol or motor spray to clean off tyre and asphalt marks from the outside of the body.

Differentials - These let the outside wheels in a turn spin faster than the inside wheels, so the car can maintain the proper path when turning.

For cars using gear differentials, you should check the areas around the diff shafts for grease leaks every 20 to 25 runs. If you see a leak, you need to take apart the diff and put more grease in it, and reassemble it carefully.

If you run a car with ball differentials, you should check the diffs for grittiness every 5 runs or so. To do this, put the car on a stand so the wheels can rotate freely. Hold the spur gear and slowly turn a wheel. Try to feel if the action is smooth or 'gritty'. If it feels gritty or the wheel is difficult to turn, you need to rebuild that diff. Now check the other diff using the same technique. You can use diff rings and thrust washers twice - just flip them over to a smooth side.
If you don't have a smooth side on the rings or washers, you need to buy new ones. We don't recommend using diff balls and thrust balls through more than one rebuild - you should replace these each time you rebuild a ball differential. Carbide diff balls will last longer under the same circumstances as regular diff balls.
Shocks - Shock absorbers soak up bumps in the track and let the tyres maintain constant contact with the racing surface; they also let the tyres dip into depressions in the track. If you are a 'backyard basher' or casual hobbyist who doesn't race, you should give your shocks a look over before each time you run the car. If you see any leaks, you need to rebuild your shocks. When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!

Racers should check their shocks before and after each run. Any leaks mean it's time for a rebuild. Shocks on a racing R/C car should be rebuilt or given a good look every ten or fifteen runs. Be sure you write down what shock oil you are using in the car! Either write it on the shock cap in a fine-point permanent marker or use a Setup Sheet . When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!

Drive Shafts - These transfer the power from the engine to the wheels so are under a lot of stress. Whether you race indoors or outdoors, you should check the shafts before the day's racing begins for any bends or wear on the ends. Replace any that need it or consider upgrading to our CVD ones under upgrades.

Drive Cups - These connect the drive shafts to the wheels and diffs. They are held on by grub screws and making sure these screws are tight is very important. Use strong threadlock on any loose ones. If a drive cup screw comes loose and you do not notice it could damage the differential and other components.

Bushings - Used on most rotating parts on sport or budget kits, bushings are better than direct contact between the parts, but not as good as ball bearings. Bushings don't need any maintenance to speak of, just keep them clean and grease them when they are first installed.

Ball Bearings - Used on most rotating parts on pro-level kits, bearings provide a way to eliminate almost all of the resistance that bushings have and serve to make the car quicker overall. For kits with the standard shielded bearings (metal shields on the side), just brush them off every now and then. You may want to put a very light dab of oil and let it soak into the bearing, but for the most part just brushing the dirt off the bearing is fine.

Gear Mesh - The relationship between the primary drive gear (pinion or clutchbell) and the secondary drive gear (spur gear). A tight gear mesh (the spur cannot 'wiggle' when installed) has too much friction and will cause the motor or engine to work too hard and could melt the spur gear from the friction. A loose gear mesh (the spur can move significantly) will probably cause the pinion gear to strip the spur gear, ruining the spur gear.
To set a proper gear mesh on electric cars, use a small piece of normal notebook or copier paper and put it in between the pinion and spur, and tighten the motor onto the motor mount. Remove the paper, and that is how much gear mesh you should have. For Nitro cars, you can get away with a little bit looser gear mesh than on electric cars because the gear teeth are much larger. Use the same technique described above, but fold the paper once before you put it in between the gears.

One-Way Diffs - Many racers do not lubricate the one-way differentials as often as they should. Every few runs, you should take the one-way diff out and remove the gear shafts to inspect the bearing. If there is no hint of grease on the bearings you should use a very small amount of the blue-capped grease that comes with the one-way diff (the amount of grease that would end up on a toothpick or pin if you dipped it in the grease) and re-lubricate the one-way bearings inside the main diff body. This will help prevent a major cause of one-way diff failures. Crashing and no lubricant are the main reasons why the one-way bearings in the one-way diff break.
by Nitrotek

How To Fix or Change Your Pull Starter.

If you break your pull start we would recommend you purchase a new one as fixing them can be quite difficult. You can get a new pull start here or you could go for an electric starter instead which are available here.

If you do want to attempt to repair it you can follow these instructions:

Remove the recoil starter by removing the four screws that attach the started to the engine. Next remove the one-way hub from the center of the spool. Untie the knot that holds the handle on the cord. Let the cord pull into the housing. Next Carefully disassemble the recoil using extra caution with the recoil spring.

Step 1.
To reassemble the starter, start by inserting the end of the spring into the slot on the starter spool. Slowly wrap the spring around the inside of the spool like the picture.
Step 2.
Insert the spool into the recoil housing. Insert the end of the cord through the hole in the outer casing. At this time tie a temporary knot in the end of cord.

Step 3.
With the cord through the hole and the spool inside the housing, its time to coil up the spring. Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, grip the spring through the center of the spool at the bend. Make sure the cord is not pulled into the house or you need to start all over. While holding the center of the spring turn and coil the spring clock-wise to tighten the tension. Turn the spring one full rotation and put the end of the spring into the spring mount in the center of the housing.

Step 4.
Now you need to put your handle back onto the cord. While holding the cord from being pulled back into untie the temporary knot that was tied in step 2, Slid the handle spacer then the handle onto the cord. You now need to tie a double knot into the end to prevent the cord from being pulled back in. Please note it may be difficult to hold the cord and tie a knot at the same time. You may want someone to help you. Your recoil should now work correctly.

by Nitrotek